Why Isn’t My Water Working? Fast Fixes and What to Check First

Quick diagnosis in 3 minutes

Goal: Identify whether this is a single-fixture issue or a whole-home supply issue. That one decision determines almost every next step.

Step 1: Test two faucets and one toilet

• Open a cold-water faucet on the lowest level (e.g., kitchen or basement).
• Open a cold-water faucet on an upper level.
• Flush a toilet and listen for tank refill.

Step 2: Look for clues in what you observe

If you have no water anywhere, prioritize the main shutoff valve and outage checks before touching individual fixtures.

Check the shutoff valves that stop water completely

A partially closed valve can make it feel like the water “isn’t working,” especially if flow drops across multiple fixtures. Start with the simplest mechanical causes.

Main shutoff valve (whole house)

Locate the main shutoff—often near where the service line enters the home (basement, garage, utility room, or outside). If it’s a lever (ball valve), it should be parallel to the pipe when open. If it’s a round handle (gate/globe), it should be turned fully counterclockwise.

• Ball valve: handle parallel to pipe = open; perpendicular = closed.
• Gate-style valve: sometimes fails internally; if turning it changes nothing, the valve may be broken.

Meter valve (often curb-side or at meter box)

If you have access to a meter box and it appears shut, stop and call your water utility. Many utilities require authorized handling, and forcing it can cause damage or liability.

Fixture shutoff valves (one sink/toilet/shower)

If only one sink or toilet has no water, the under-sink (angle stop) valve or the toilet supply valve may be closed. Turn counterclockwise to open. If the valve is stiff, do not force it; older valves can snap.

Rule out a water outage or service interruption

If your entire home has no water and your main valve is open, an outage is one of the most common explanations. Outages can be planned (maintenance) or unplanned (main break, power issues at pumping stations).

Fast ways to confirm an outage

• Ask a neighbor (ideally next door or across the street) whether their water works.
• Check your utility’s outage page or recorded hotline if available.
• Look for street work: cones, open hydrants, construction crews, or visible leaks.

If the outage is confirmed, keep one cold faucet slightly open. When service returns, you’ll notice flow and can then flush air and sediment safely (details below).

If only hot water isn’t working

When cold water works but hot doesn’t, the problem is typically at the water heater or the hot-side distribution—rarely the city supply.

Check the water heater shutoff and power/fuel

• Heater inlet valve: ensure the cold supply valve feeding the heater is open.
• Electric heater: check the breaker; a tripped breaker can stop heating but usually not flow—unless a mixing valve or system is involved.
• Gas heater: verify pilot/ignition status per the manufacturer’s instructions on the unit label.

Common hot-water-only scenario: airlock or sediment after shutdown

After plumbing work or a supply interruption, air can collect and reduce hot flow. Running the hot tap for several minutes at a lower-level faucet can purge it. If hot flow is still weak, sediment may be restricting a cartridge or mixing valve.

If one faucet or one room isn’t working

A single dead faucet is usually a local restriction, not a whole-house water problem. The highest-impact fixes take less than 10 minutes.

Clean the aerator (most common fix)

If water dribbles from one faucet but pressure is normal elsewhere, the aerator is a top suspect. Unscrew it, rinse debris, and re-install. If you recently had water shut off, sediment can dislodge and clog aerators immediately afterward.

Check under-sink shutoff valves and supply lines

• Confirm both hot and cold angle-stop valves are fully open.
• Inspect flexible supply lines for kinks or crushing behind cabinets.

Shower or tub only: cartridge or balancing spool issues

If the rest of the bathroom works but the shower does not, the mixing valve cartridge can be jammed by mineral buildup or sediment. This is common after a shutoff event. Replacing or cleaning the cartridge is often the durable solution.

Low water pressure everywhere

Whole-home low pressure is frequently caused by a partially closed main valve or a failing pressure-reducing valve (PRV). It can also happen when sediment affects filters or regulators.

What “normal” pressure usually looks like

Many homes operate comfortably around 40–60 psi. If pressure falls well below that, showers become weak and appliances may error out. A simple hose-bib pressure gauge can confirm pressure at an outdoor spigot.

Targeted checks for low pressure

• Verify the main shutoff valve is fully open (not half-turned).
• If you have a PRV (often bell-shaped near the main line), consider that it may be failing or misadjusted.
• If you use a whole-house filter, check whether the cartridge is overdue; clogged filters can cut flow dramatically.

Frozen pipes: how to confirm and what to do safely

If temperatures were below freezing and you suddenly have no water (or only a trickle), treat it as a frozen pipe until proven otherwise. Frozen pipes are time-sensitive because thawing can reveal splits and leaks.

Signs a pipe is frozen

• No flow on one or more fixtures served by an exterior wall.
• Frost on exposed piping or an unusually cold cabinet space under sinks.
• Intermittent trickle that stops entirely.

Safe thawing approach

1. Open the affected faucet slightly so melting ice can relieve pressure.
2. Warm the area gradually (space heater at a safe distance, warm air from a hair dryer).
3. Do not use open flames or high-heat tools; they can damage piping and create fire risk.
4. Watch for leaks as flow returns—splits often show up during thaw.

If you suspect a pipe burst (water stains, dripping, pooling), shut off the main valve immediately and call a plumber.

After water returns: prevent sediment damage

When supply returns after an outage or plumbing work, air and sediment can surge through your lines. This can clog aerators, showerheads, and appliance inlet screens.

Best practice flush sequence

1. Run the cold faucet on the lowest level for 3–5 minutes.
2. Then run other cold faucets briefly, moving upward through the home.
3. Finally, run hot water for 2–3 minutes at one faucet to purge hot-side air.

If a faucet weakens right after service returns, clean the aerator before assuming a bigger problem.

When to stop troubleshooting and call a professional

Some “water not working” situations involve safety risks or can cause property damage quickly. Use the checklist below to decide when to escalate.

Call your water utility if

• There is no water to the entire home and your main valve is open.
• You suspect a meter/curb valve issue or see a street-side leak.

Call a plumber urgently if

• You see active leaking anywhere, especially after thawing a frozen line.
• You smell gas near a water heater or suspect electrical hazards around water.
• Pressure is extremely low and adjustments/valves do not change anything.

Conclusion: why isn’t my water working?

Most “why isn’t my water working?” problems come from a closed or partially closed shutoff valve, a neighborhood outage, or a localized blockage like a clogged aerator. Start by determining whether the issue is whole-home or single-fixture, confirm valves are fully open, then rule out an outage. If freezing weather is involved or any leaking appears, shut off the water and escalate quickly.